Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on